Tourist of Light

The other day I was playing with my flashes ... just trying to formulate in my mind what I wanted to say during the Strobist section of Tracy Wright Corvo's Portrait and Lighting workshop. And as usual it was the night before the workshop ... late :).
So, as I was running thru all the classic lighting scenarios of basic lighting ... a light bulb goes off , maybe if they know the names and can see it ... they will recognize them when they see the shot on a mag or an image ... and start thinking about how it was created (strobe or manual flash, it's all the same). Bingo! I got a single point I can hammer home ... and try "not" to go all over the place on tangents and end up with someone that does not actually get to shoot, with my set up, LOL. ( it's hard for me to stay on point ... that's why I love blogs ... It helps me "try" to convey one point on a blog ... and I can see when I start to go off the rails ... and I can see when it is getting toooo long , when I start obsessing on just one point ... as much as I share my journey ... I always get back ... funny how that works ... but, it's never in a direct relationship ) ..... .... ..... ..... .....

Anyway ... I digress :) ... It was getting late ... and just as I was going to pack it in ... I do what I normally try to do , once the money shot is on the CF.
Shoot something I would not, normally. Light it differently. Break some rules (guidelines really). :)
So, there I went ... moving the lights ... just doing some crazy stuff that an old PRO (with years of lighting experience) would totally trash me for.
And then BANG! something COOL!
(OMG! it's 5am ... workshop is 9am ... and I have not packed up, or gone to sleep yet)
WOW! I am a f-ing Explorer! an "EXPLORER ... of ....... LIGHT" !

Hmmmm ... where did I hear that before? Must have been on some Nikon forum :)
But, nooo ... I am not a Explorer of Light ... I have "just" begun my Journey. I am not Columbus, I did not discover America ... I am not going where no Man has gone before?
All I am at this point, "is" a Tourist ... a "Tourist" of Light. :)

What I do is ... research my Trip plan ... get advice from others that have "been" there, "done" that ... Maybe join up with a good Tour group, where both the Tour guide and Tourist share information ... I have been to places and gone on Tours before , so I know a few things that I can apply to my Journey. I read books, and look at pics of the destinations. I plan my schedule.
But, in fact ... I am a Tourist. Not an Explorer ... I discover nothing NEW. (just new for me).
And as I go on my journey or Tour ... my Journey with Light ... sometimes I accidently, or on purpose ... roam down a side street ... get lost ... and find something New! on my own. And that can make the trip even more worthwhile.

Because if you can find your way back ... and also remember how you got there. That, becomes another tool (another compass, another GPS app) ... that gives you confidence to take a few more "side streets".

Hope this helps someone,
Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/

"The Tourist of LIGHT" :)

Flashes vs Strobes ?

from last week, at f2.8 with flash :)

A conversation came up with another PRO photog ... a subject that I have discussed with others before ... and battled with a decision for my own purchases.

Flashes or Strobes???

For me it comes down to this:

Price, Portability, Power ... (Flexibility and easy of use , as in TTL / HSS)

Price:
If you go with Nikon CLS or Canon TTL top of the line Flashes that give you Power/Recycle and Features ... the price difference is not that much "if at all" between a Einstein / AB system with Battery ... and a Four Flash solution , which you would need (at least) in order to have the Power.

But, if you go manual Flashes ... like the New LumoPro LP160 ... just blogged about.
http://eyesofhawaii.blogspot.com/2010/07/lumopro-lp160-great-value-strobist.html

Price advantage goes to Flashes.
But, it needs to be said .. you can cover the Power of four flashes with "just" one strobe. and AB's are cheap. and Einstines are fast and with action stopping power.

Portability:
Flashes WIN ! period ... more so if you have to fly with them.

But, the AB solution is not bad ... because all you need is one(1) strobe and battery. and again , you have power.

Power: (Power actualy should be the most important)
Strobes WIN ! no question

When you have a need for power ... there is no substitute :)
and you have the option to plug into a wall ... so you can shoot long jobs. with a faster recycle. (and with little overheat worries)

Power allows you to light up large groups ... and Power gives you a lot of Modifying options to soften the light.

If you don't have enough power, any modifier will reduce your power even further.

Below shot today Day 7/25/10 : 1/500 HSS, f4, iso200 .. did I have to shoot/flash HSS maybe not ... but I have that option ... so I take it :).


(Flexibility and ease of use , as in TTL / HSS)
A TTL multi Flash system WINS ! ... but, it is also the Most Expensive choice.
Just the triggers alone is $250 each ... and the Flashes at almost $500 for the best one's.
But, you have a TTL solution ... that is a fast event set up. and you have full remote control.
and a HSS solution that allows you to fast shutter in the bright sun (but, you MUST have more flashes and power)

AB strobes with the PX trigger and JrX studio REC allows you to HSS on AB's older strobes with phone jack. But, the Einstein's does NOT have a HSS solution yet.

* IF the Einstein could shoot HSS, "that" would be the ultimate HSS solution at a very good price. (and this might happen in time, once RadioPopper figures it out)

If you have a Multi TTL flash system, or a Manual flash system ... what you have is Flexibility.
You can take One(1) flash with you (really, really portable) ... or you can take Ten(10) flashes ... you can bring as much gear as the job requires.
The nice thing about multi flashes is you can place them where you need them and control them individually. Of course it also adds a bit of complexity to the set up. But, it also has more possibilities for some dramatic light and creativity. More flashes , more options. :)

Simple might be the best solution ... but, we are talking about what is more Flexible and has more options. (more flashes = more options)

Also need to concider .. a Huge Octibox with grid with a powerful strobe is actually the easiest to use in a studio for a portrait. A bunch of flashes for a portrait will almost always be more difficult. Because of the options and choices that can be made.

Shot today 7/25/10 handheld with flash ... f3.2, 1/50, iso1600 , 86mm


Conclusion:
IF, you have time on the set up ... Strobes are the ultimate solution ... more so if you have a Radio Trigger set up (RadioPoppers PX/JrX studio combo) that also allow you to HSS in the sun. AND control the power level of AB stobes via Radio remotely (not Einstiens , yet)

IF, you are an event shooter ... that portability and speed of the "first" shot and set up is more important than Power and Cost. TTL flashes are the ultimate solution.

IF, Cost and Flexibility is the priority , and Power not as much ... a Multi Manual Flash solution is the Best. which is what most Strobist do.
They use Multi Manual Flashes ... Key word is Multi.

For me, the immediate answer was easier ... when I discovered that RadioPopper has not figured out how to HSS on the new Einstein's ... "yet".

HSS is important to me ... because I shoot a ton of f2.8 during the day LOL
That might be out of the norm.

Hope this helps the conversation,
Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/

LumoPro LP160 ... great value strobist flash

LumoPro LP160 Manual strobist type flash

Great price, Powerful, budget flash , with a lot of built in inputs.

Most strobist use there flashes in manual , so not having TTL is not a issue.

I have been using two(2) older LumoPro LP120 (discontinued now) flashes for a long while now. They are my most used flash on the road/location because of its ease of use and it’s built in sync ability. In fact even if I am using my sb900’s for the Main and fill … I always use the LP120 for the kicker or background. In fact the LP120 is my favorite, most used , "go to" Kicker flash. And it’s a real plus that it’s lightweight too. And low priced (you don’t worry about them all the time, on a location shoot)

Just got the new LumoPro LP160 in prep for this weekends “sold out” Portrait and Lighting Workshop. And I wanted a more powerful, faster recycle flash that will match up better with my four sb900’s that I use.

First thing I noticed about the new LP160 besides the fact that it is slightly larger than the LP120, is that it comes with a 1/8 to PC sync cord and a Pop-on (sb900 style, kinda) wide diffuser, and a cold-shoe stand … all of which the LP 120 did not have. Another thing different from the LP120 is that the battery cover slides completely off (not sure if this is a good thing) I personally like the battery cover of the sb900 better

Below pictured is what is in the box of the LP160 (diffuser and sync cord, manual) ... and, my LP120 carry everywhere Kicker flash set up with the RadioPopper JrX studio attached.

On the box you can see “quad sync” flash .. that’s because it can sync via the Metal Hot Shoe (the LP120 had plastic feet) Built-in slave, PC jack, and 1/8” sync jack (which the 1/8” is my favorite way to sync my RadioPopper Receivers to the LP160.
Motorized zoom head from 24mm to 105mm (LP120 you just zoomed it manual). And it does 1/1 thru 1/64 power … also has front and back red Ready lights. Comes with a 2 year warrentee.
A cool feature is you change both power and zoom via it’s own buttons, that are within thumbs distance for easy adjustment of both, at the same time … and the level is shown via lights (nice on night shoots) ..
Also has a digital slave mode that ignores preflashes. Handy when you are shooting in TTL on your main flash.
The Power level of the LP160 vs sb900 is close when I shot it to a background , but I think the sb900 has an edge imho (but, this is great performance for a flash much less than half the cost … note no TTL or CLS on the LP160) …
It also has a wine after the pop ... that I have not heard in modern flashes. Not even the LP120 does this.
Did a 40 shot test, triggering the LP160, LP120, sb900 and Metz 48 … CH continuous shoot at 5 fps with a Niikon D700 16gb Extreme PRO CF, Delkin Low Discharge 2300mAh batteries (which are great by the way, bought at Thomas Distributing) … after the 18th shot when the shot speed slowed down to an even pace but slower (probably 1 fps) … The LP160 fired on every Fourth shot , the sb900 fired on every second shot, Metz 48 every Sixth shot , LP120 every Tenth shot aprox.
Pretty good performance for a $160 flash
http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/2,754.html

fyi, the sb900 light pattern looked rounder and slightly larger when both are set to 24mm and the sb900 set to “Even” (Nikon sb900 guys know what I mean) … the sb900 light pattern choices and features needs another blog.
The light pattern on the LP160 is improved vs the LP120 … the LP120 had a hot band of light in the middle of the light pattern … like you can see the light tube. This actually made the LP120 my favorite Kicker / rim light flash. And if I wanted softer more even light I ran a diffuser.
* The LP160 does not have this issue and the pattern is clearly more even.

Bottom line:
"I love this flash!" ..
and it is a Big improvment over the older cheaper LP120 … it will be in my bag along with my sb900’s …
Normally I will shoot TTL on the sb900’s and use the LP160/LP120 in manual for Kicker or background light … the nice thing is I can trigger both using my RadioPopper PX and JrX system together, and am able to mix both TTL and manual … or go strait manual on all my flashes (in studio).

Here is three small things that could have been improved.
1) build in the ability for this flash to be controled by RadioPoppers JrX studio system ... so, we can control the power level via Radio trigger.
2) Whenever I turn on the flash the default is 35mm, 1/1 power ... imho, it should be the "last" settings. or at the very least 24mm, 1/1
3) the Power level should go down to 1/128 ... because this flash is more powerful. :)


Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/

Low Light shooting Tips :) ... Handheld

image shot handheld Manual 1/15, f2.8, 110mm iso500 Nikon D700

Shot just last week :)

A question was asked about Low Light Shooting Tips ... on the EOH google groups ... private email group for EOH members.

Have a feeling this will be asked again ... so, since I had already typed it up ... it was easy to copy and paste here ... so, I can point to it when that questions comes up again. LOL

Things that work for me in Low Light :

1) Tripod is your best friend ... and cheapest way to get great Low Light images. (yes, I know you asked about handheld)

2) Brace yourself on something. Shake is the killer in Low light ... as well as subject movement. ... brace your camera on your Face, as well as keeping your elbows "IN" to brace elbows on your chest. ... everything tight, breathe out (hold breath) , Relax a little (I know this is the opposite of "everything tight") squeeze shutter like a trigger of a gun. (it's amazing how much a shutter "push" can mess up a low light, slow shutter shot)

* here's an exercise to do , that will improve your low light shooting :
Make a Target ... with a small line of TEXT , Laser print on a 8x10
Tape it to a wall
Make sure the light is enough that you can lock focus easy ... and a 1/100 shutter on a 70mm lens (on FF) , is very sharp. Wide Open ... f2.8 or faster if you have the lens. (longer lens, will make it more challenging, if you like)
Now, start dropping the shutter speed down , one stop at a time. (remember to keep the lens Wide Open, do not change the A, you can float the ISO to keep the exposure the same , if you want ... that would mean a start value of iso400 to iso800 probably ... and as you drop the shutter , lower the iso)
My guess you will start to have problems at 1/15, f2.8, iso200 at 70mm (with NO IS/VR on) ... and will start to see at what shutter speed you can consistently keep the TEXT Sharp.
Knowing this , and at what shutter, on what lens is "power". Knowledge is Power. :)

Shot this today 7/25/10 Handheld: 1/20, f2.8, iso3200, 100mm


3) Now for the Expensive solution to Handheld Low Light . lol

* a High iso ability camera ... D700 , and more so D3s (the High ISO King at the moment) ... so, you can hand hold at the reciprocal of the Focal length , or fast enough to stop any action or movement. normally 1/100, or 1/500 on sports/action.
note: a cameras ability to shoot High ISO is not only Low Noise ... it's Detail and Color , both just as important as the amount of noise in the shadows. "I think" every PRO will tell you it's the Detail and Color that kills a high iso image from being a paid shot , even before noise (on high end pro bodys) ... noise if even (not blotchy) , might be a nice grain ... that can add to a shots look and feel. might give it a gritty realism ... that a smooth low light shot might not have.

It's amazing what a Full frame camera can give you (and as the Nikon D3s has shown , it can also get Better! with future models) ... as far as Hand Held opportunities in Low Light. imho, there is just no substitute. (speaking of High ISO performance)

* FAST Lens ... f2.8 or Faster. (on a Full Frame body) ... High Iso body + Fast lens = more opportunities to hand hold in low light. This is the most useful and the most expensive solution. Talking Sharp, great color and FAST.

Normally, we are talking big lens here. :)

and most of the time you are talking slightly longer Focal length ... because if you are that close , you can do a lot of things to light them up (softly) ... and still make it look natural.

If, you are talking Landscape ... you can Tripod, or bean bag , or rest it on something. (I have used a trash can as a tripod . or tree ... or rail ... just crop , strait latter)

But, I will admit ... hand holding a fast wide lens ... even in very low light ... is the easiest to do.

Nikon 24mm f1.4 comes to mind ... but, I don't have that :)

* Shoot RAW , and post process Noise Reduction on the Raw file (DNG is also RAW) ... before it is output to another file type ... a D700 RAW file , noise reduction in Lightroom v3 can give you as much as a 1 Stop advantage at high ISO ... by the way, that's just the benefit from LR v2.3 to a v3 upgrade in software . Same RAW file.
RAW can give you a cleaner file ... but, can "also" give you the ability to take advantage of Future Software improvements .. or improvements on your "own" future ability to Post Process better.

note: files, I RAW processed 3 years ago ... I can go back and improve them now ... just because of LR v3 and my Post Processing skills are better.
and, a 16 bit RAW really, really helps you Color Correct (via more latitude) ... Color is the second largest issue with low light shots. (the easy way is to convert to B&W)

Here's a link on RAW and the Low light advantage ... the link is also posted on the Smugmug site: * It's all about the Details.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/187938/using_your_cameras_raw_mode.html?tk=nl_dfx_h_cbintro

* "IS" / "VR" ... in lens or in body ... notice I listed this last ... because if there is any subject movement IS/VR will not be your solution. I am even talking "wind" ...
What IS/VR will totally help you with is your body and handhold/shooting technique movements.

* Shoot Sequential ... 5-8 frames per second ... this might yield a few good sharp shots. (yes, you will have a lot of throw away's ... but, you really only need one sharp one!) ... and yes, a faster shooting body does help. hmmm, and you thought a Fast shooting body only helps sports shooters. :)


Ross Hamamura / http://www.rdhphoto.net/

Jianisi Remote Shutter - Nikon screw 10-pin, Best $4.57 Nikon gear purchase you will ever make :)

Seriously, this is the Best $4.57 you will spend on any Nikon gear!

It's a Remote Shutter Release for the Nikon screw 10-pin.

Made by Jianisi China , shipped thru Kow Loon Hong Kong ... sold on the web thru Deal Extreme LINK here:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8217

This also shipped FREE anywhere in the world ... even to Hawaii. * AND it arrived in 10 days!

So, we are talking about a Nikon 10-pin screw remote release cable for $4.57 Total with shipping to Hawaii. Holly $hit!

I almost paid that much in shipping alone, for just for two cables (and that shipping was a deal) ... here is link to the June blog about those cables : http://eyesofhawaii.blogspot.com/2010/06/nikon-screw-type-sync-cords-to-35mm.html

Below is a pic of what I recieved in a padded envolope (no box).

The 10-pin screw tip and cord is about a good as anything I have seen.

The Button and release feels ... well ... plastic-y and cheap ... Did I mention it is $4.57?

The half press on the button feels unsure ... but it works ... Did I mention it is $4.57?

The Full press feels spongy ... but hold it down and you are at High speed shutter on a D700 at CH. Click it forward and it locks.

Also, good for Long exposures (did not test this).

imho, if the Shutter release part breaks ... you could still use the 10-pin screw and cord and put something else on it ... or attach a better release.

Yes, the release part is a little Toy in feeling ... does not have that D700/D3 Nikon PRO Accessory feel to it ... But, did I mention it is $4.57 total cost??? LOL

If, it breaks ... I'll just buy a New one ! Seriously.

I know this will help someone :)

Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/

SanDisk Extreme PRO 16gb CF and issue with Nikon D700 on format

* While on the subject of "issues" ... here's is a small one I ran into just this week:

First, I want to note that I have been running Extreme PRO 16gb SanDisk CF since Nov. 2009 on my two(2) D700's without issue ... and they are FAST! reealy Fast!
IF, you have a need for speed ... THIS is it!

I have "still" about 8 old SanDisk CF going back to ExtremeII to 8gb IV ... but, they are now all backup to my 16gb Extreme PRO CF's. ZERO problems! all working, still. (but, in retirement lol)

Back on 6/28/10 there was a price drop on the SanDisk Extreme PRO 16gb CF at B&H so I bought another one.

Right out of the BOX something was strange ... in my D700 it would not format.
So, I loaded it on my SanDisk reader to a Win7 PC and formatted it (no problem).
Then, Formatted it on my D700 (no problem)
Shot a few test ... did a few small shoots , No problems

note: before any Paid shoot I always Format all my CF's in the D700 it will be used on.

Well, on this past weekend Wedding shoot ... after about 3-6 test shots I could not write to my Newest SanDisk Extreme PRO 16gb CF anymore. AND, I could not "just" Format it on my D700. So, it was basically dead!

Being that I have a lot of Backup CFs I just flipped to another one ... I was just reeealy, realy lucky that the "Black Pearl" from Pirates of the Carribian movie was off the coast and I took a few test shots of it. (when the CF failed). (just lost a few cool shots , guns blazing) ... because, it seems I cannot read from the CF now too ... and can only re-format on a PC. (which I don't care about, because I have lost confidence in this particular CF at this point)

The scary part was this card formated before the shoot ... and I was able to shoot to it ... for a while.
* BUT, it gave me "Signs" something was wrong. and Different from the other Extreme PRO CF cards.

Just was off a chat with SanDisk ... compatability with Extreme PRO 16gb and Nikon D700 with FW ver. 1.02 confirmed ... as well as this CF being BAD ... and this is an important point:

a New Extreme PRO CF "should" be able to FORMAT right out of the BOX on a D700. *

Which my other CF's was able to do ...

SO , "when" you cannot format on a D700, a Extreme PRO CF ... that is NOT a good sign! Be Afraid, very Afraid.
On a paid shoot this could be a killer! far more costly than the CF cost.

and don't think you are safe just because it formats via CF reader on PC and then on a D700. imho, if one of your CF's starts acting differently than the rest you need to watch it and have it identified.

7/17/2010 update: First I want to say I am impressed with Sandisk Support. Full stop.


The other day I went on the Sandisk site to Tech support. Did a Chat (this seems like it is 24/7)
http://kb.sandisk.com/app/utils/chat/session/L3NpZC9RNHpsSWI1aw%3D%3D/sno/0
... chatted on-line with Mark Sadsad (from PI) ... who was very nice and calm (because at that point I was not, lol ... have some specific long shoots at the end of the month I wanted this card for).
Well, long story short he told me to "try" to Return to B&H first (and if not , they would do it) ...
Tried at B&H via email , but they would not because I had "marked the back of it with my information and date bought" (always do this after , I think the CF works ... never had a CF issue before). And I thru alway ALL the packaging and other stuff. :)

Meanwhile Sandisk Support (Mark) emailed me a copy of the full text of the chat ... with his contact information.
So, it was easy to just "reply to the email" ... and tell him I could not do the return with B&H.

Within hours , he both emailed me AND called me! wow

Mark made the transaction of returning the CF for a new one ... very, very easy.
He emailed me instructions AND a UPS label to stick on my package. FREE shipping UPS. All I need to do is have them pick up or drop off at a UPS store.
It was kinda nice to only have to deal with one person at SanDisk, that already knew my story (from the start, on there web chat) ... so, I did not have to repeat the same story over and over again ... now how many times do you have to do that when going thru multi levels of tech support?
This was a welcome change.

Since Extreme II CF's and my first digital DSLRs I have been using SanDisk .. "this" will make me a Lifetime Customer.
imho, this is how companies can take a "problem or issue" with there product, and turn it into a opportunity to create something positive from it. and generate free advertising thru customer loyalty and word of mouth.


I am Using two(2) Extreme PRO 16gb CF's ... and SanDisk USB reader ... and will soon buy a SanDisk Express Card Reader. (the Express Card Reader they have been selling out at B&H, and there seems to be a small issue with a short guide track.
LINK to a reveiw (by Rob Galbraith) on the Speed and the New Extreme PRO Express Card Readers.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-10043-10255

Just in case you are wondering what is that CF case that I am using ... It's the
Gepe Card Safe Extreme Watertight Case -
for Four Compact Flash (CF), Smart Media (SM), Memory Stick (MS), Multi Media (MMC) or Secure Digital Cards (Neon Green)
The Gepe Card Safe Extreme (Neon Green) is a watertight case made to store memory cards such as Compact Flash, Smart Media, Memory Stick, MMC or SD cards. Inside, the memory cards are protected against humidity and dust, as well as electrostatic charge. Four compartments offer space for several different memory cards, and grip each of them tightly.


The Card Safe Extreme uses insert material to protect the memory cards from being erased or damaged due to electrostatic effects. The card holder also has special viewing windows so you are able to see which space is taken by which card, even if the box is closed. This makes the organization of your cards easier. In addition, it is weatherproofed and it floats in water, and the design of the lock makes using the Card Safe a snap, even when wearing gloves.

The Card Safe Extreme has been tested and certified as European IPX-7, which means it is protected against immersion in water (immersion for 30 minutes at a depth of 1 meter).

• Polycarbonate, anti-static inner material is used to manufacture this media case.
• Four multi-card compartments
• Shock resistant
• Dustproof
• Watertight rated as IPX-7, which means it is protected against immersion in water (immersion for 30 minutes at a depth of 1 meter).
• Floats in water *** How cool is that!
• Clear viewing windows 1 close Please Note:Helpful hint: Put the unused memory cards face up and the used cards face down
• Eyelet connector for an accessory strap

$19.00

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/332251-REG/Gepe_3862E.html#features

Hope this helps someone,

Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/

Basic Elements of Photography Workshop

Just thought I would mention this workshop being put on by friends Tracy Wright Corvo and Michael Torrres on August 7, 2010

Tracy has had a string of sold out workshops lately ... I have been helping her with the Portrait and Lighting one , doing the strobist section of it (off camera flash) ... she is an experianced photography teacher, and I love her style. :)


This is a Begining / Basic Photography Workshop

Saturday, August 7th 10-am to 4pm

To Register: email Tracy at twc@tracywrightcorvo.com



Flyer has Details

Nikon 24-70 f2.8 lens "leak" issue ... No not all

Nikon 24-70 f2.8 lens "leak" issue ... No not all

There is a Light "leak" issue going around on "Some" 24-70 f2.8 lens.
Happens at 50-55mm, iso4000 at 10 sec ... but, on lens with the issue it can also happen at iso400, 1/125 too.
The "leak" is thru the Distance Window!

The test is to CAP your lens ... shoot at 50-55mm , iso4000 at 10sec ... and look at the shot and see if there is light at the top left of the image (should be all black)

* Of course I tested mine ... bought at B&H ... US version with 5 year warrentee.
NO ISSUE on mine. whew .... (love B&H , sales volume helps them sell thru stock)
But, I "feel" there pain ... and is an issue that "needs" to be known and fixed ... and NOT with TAPE. :)


But, this is something good to know if you own one ... good to know if you plan to buy one.

Here is a Video of the issue and the TEST:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhEZssWmAsM&feature=player_embedded




fyi: moved this to it's own blog :)
* While on the subject of "issues" ... here's is a small one I ran into just this week:

First, I want to note that I have been running Extreme PRO 16gb SanDisk CF since Nov. 2009 on my two(2) D700's without issue ... and they are FAST! reealy Fast!
IF, you have a need for speed ... THIS is it!

I have "still" about 8 old SanDisk CF going back to ExtremeII to 8gb IV ... but, they are now all backup to my 16gb Extreme PRO CF's. ZERO problems! all working, still. (but, in retirement lol)

Back on 6/28/10 there was a price drop on the SanDisk Extreme PRO 16gb CF at B&H so I bought another one.

Right out of the BOX something was strange ... in my D700 it would not format.
So, I loaded it on my SanDisk reader to a Win7 PC and formatted it (no problem).
Then, Formatted it on my D700 (no problem)
Shot a few test ... did a few small shoots , No problems

note: before any Paid shoot I always Format all my CF's in the D700 it will be used on.

Well, on this past weekend Wedding shoot ... after about 3-6 test shots I could not write to my Newest SanDisk Extreme PRO 16gb CF anymore. AND, I could not "just" Format it on my D700. So, it was basically dead!

Being that I have a lot of Backup CFs I just flipped to another one ... I was just reeealy, realy lucky that the "Black Pearl" from Pirates of the Carribian movie was off the coast and I took a few test shots of it. (when the CF failed). (just lost a few cool shots , guns blazing) ... because, it seems I cannot read from the CF now too ... and can only re-format on a PC. (which I don't care about, because I have lost confidence in this particular CF at this point)

The scary part was this card formated before the shoot ... and I was able to shoot to it ... for a while.
* BUT, it gave me "Signs" something was wrong. and Different from the other Extreme PRO CF cards.

Just was off a chat with SanDisk ... compatability with Extreme PRO 16gb and D700 confirmed ... as well as this CF being BAD ... and this is an important point:

a New Extreme PRO CF "should" be able to FORMAT right out of the BOX on a D700. *

Which my other CF's was able to do ...

SO , "when" you cannot format on a D700, a Extreme PRO CF ... that is NOT a good sign! Be Afraid, very Afraid.
On a paid shoot this could be a killer! far more costly than the CF cost.

and don't think you are safe just because it formats via CF reader on PC and then on a D700.

7/17/2010 update: First I want to say I am impressed with Sandisk Support. Full stop.
The other day I went on the Sandisk site to Tech support. Did a Chat (this seems like it is 24/7)
http://kb.sandisk.com/app/utils/chat/session/L3NpZC9RNHpsSWI1aw%3D%3D/sno/0

... chatted on-line with Mark Sadsad (from PI) ... who was very nice and calm (because at that point I was not, lol ... have some specific long shoots at the end of the month I wanted this card for).
Well, long story short he told me to "try" to Return to B&H first (and if not , they would do it) ... Tried at B&H via email , but they would not because I had "marked the back of it with my information and date bought" (always do after , I think the CF is a works ... never had a CF issue before). And I thru alway ALL the packaging and other stuff. :)

Meanwhile Sandisk Support (Mark) emailed me a copy of the chat ... with his contact information.
So, it was easy to just "reply to the email" ... and tell him I could not do the return with B&H.

Within hours , he both emailed me AND called me! wow

Mark made the transaction of returning the CF for a new one ... very, very easy.
He emailed me instructions AND a UPS label to stick on my package. FREE shipping UPS. All I need to do is have them pick up or drop off at a UPS store.

Since Extreme II CF's and my first digital DSLRs I have been using SanDisk .. this will make me a Lifetime Customer.

Using Extreme PRO 16gb CF's and Extreme PRO Express Card Reader and SanDisk USB reader.

Ross Hamamura http://www.rdhphoto.net/